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No Arbitrary Fashion
Arbiter Of Sustainable Fashion
Zanov
Resort '19
Up-cycled & Zero Waste Collection
Zanov & I have known each other since fashion school. We met for the first time on a performance of Swan Lake. Ever since we've been inspiring each other as we both see fashion as a way challenge the world. Together we discovered the cosmos of fashion and performance arts, and we realized that we are on a life-long journey of exploration of the powerful human societal phenomenon of dressing, fashioning and adorning. Recently we challenged ourselves to create a collection that will portray our shared vision for the future of fashion, in sense of circular design and sustainability. We both come from a society where this side of fashion is still not widely discussed. Below we share our practice and baby efforts to change the way we communicate, produce and consume fashion. With a sense of style! Wink.
Handcrafted
Pleats
One of the ways we tackled up-cycling was with fabric manipulation. All the textures in the collection were handmade. We experimented with different qualities and widths of pleats. The pleats also allowed also completely zero waste patterns. They also created cohesion and flow throughout the looks.
We played with the up-cycling challenge by creating handcrafted pleats in different qualities and various widths.
Ashy grey midi dress, it has pleated skirt v - neck top with spaghetti tie straps and open back.
Made in up-cycled fabric and zero waste cut.
Collaboration
My experience with the fashion brand Zanov started right after my graduation in fashion design. The designer and I, both obtained our education at the same program. He was just few years ahead of me. Anyhow, together we ended up launching the brand Zanov. We did that at Skopje Fashion Week in 2015.
In 2019 we had the chance to reunite and collaborate again. We decided to create a capsule resort collection with up-cycled fabric and zero waste cuts. Learn about the practices, the process and take a look at the collection below.
We decided to create a zero waste capsule collection with up-cycled materials.
Violet dress with pleated top.
Made of up-cycled silk.
Up-cycled
luxury fabrics
98% of the materials were up-cycled luxury fabrics. Zanov creates bespoke and made-to-measure fashion for the clients with luxury fabrics. This kind of design sometimes produces waste. So we selected the finest fabrics to create unique pieces. In our selection we including mostly silk chiffon, silk satin, silk shantung.
Hot pink silk mini dress with a deep v-neckline, an open back and spaghetti tie straps.
Made in up-cycled silk.
"We created most of the styles by draping directly on a mannequin.
Zero-waste
It was not enough to just create the garments from up-cycled fabrics. We challenged ourselves to design zero-waste pattern However, most of the styles we created by playing with draping directly on a mannequin. This gave us so much freedom to express ourselves.
Flowy top with spaghetti tie straps.
Made in up-cycled silk and zero waste pattern.
Frest green silk satin trousers. Made of up-cycled silk.
Customizable
design
Most of the pieces in the collection are designed with few features and details that can be customised by the wearer. On some pieces the open back can be altered to the wearer's preferences. On others the wearer can choose to have the neckline more or less open. Same goes for the slits. And the length of the trousers, the dresses and the tops. However, some pieces were especially made more playful so that the wearer can chose placement of the straps.
Silk ankle length skirt in powder pink with side slit.
A-line silk satin top with spaghetti tie straps.
Both made in up-cycled silk & zero waste pattern.
Communicating
Circularity
On social media and all across the established network of communication channels of the brand, we shared our practice. We did that to raise awareness amongst the consumers and society. It was especially important for us to spread the word and bring sustainability closer to students, local designers and fashion brands since circular design thinking is unfortunately still not widely discussed in our society.
Lavender corset top with handmade pleats.
Made of up-cycled silk.
Desirability
This is something that we didn't compromised on. At all. After all the reason why we both decided to be designer is because fashion is a phenomenon that we were always fascinated with. We enjoyed working together and every moment from designing the pieces to making the photo-shoot, to sharing it with the clients and everyone else. We looked for style inspiration in the people that surround us when creating the looks. The challenges of circular design with up-cycled fabrics and zero waste just empowered us.
Olive green midi dress with pleated top and ruffles, v-neck, open back and spaghetti tie straps.
Made in up-cycled chiffon and zero waste cut.
Longevity
All the designs were crafted in the Zanov atelier. We designed, cut and sew all the garments. We hand-pleated the fabrics. And we hand-stitched wherever we felt the fabric deserved special attention and care. We used quality fabrics and we developed all the products with great attention to details and functionality. We designed pieces that can be worn day to nigh and for many occasions. But we also share garment care tips and guides with the wearers. We encourage them whenever they're no longer excited about the garments to bring them back. First we will try to re-design, upgrade, or alter it for them. Otherwise, we will take care of all the pre-loved garments. And lastly, we kindly ask the wearer to share the story of how me made it. With great passion and with them in mind.
"quare top with wide shoulder straps & open back. Zero waste pattern.
High waisted trousers with slits at the back.
Both made in powder pink up-cycled fabric. "
Color & Silhouette
Vibrant and brilliant, the color palette ranges from green to pastel & hot pink, to lavender, violet and purple. All this colors are invigorating and vivid, as we were inspired by the regenerative power of nature and all it's species. Therefore, some of the silhouettes were flowy, some dynamic and others organic. We designed different silhouettes so they can be worn on different body types as well. That's why few garments are emphasizing the waist, few the back, the shoulders, the legs and so on. We played with lines, color, texture and form to create one of a kind garments which can be worn by many.
Flowy dress in vibrant green chiffon. Off the shoulder pleated long sleeves. With v-neck and contrasting detail in purple.
Made in up-cycled fabric.
Connect:
@zanov.m
Photographer and assistant designer @_kemlinz_
Short dress with spaghetti straps. Pleated in few shades of purple. Made of up-cycled chiffon and zero waste cut.
Zanov
Bold, provocative and fearless, brand really translates the designer's idea of fashion. Fashion should also empower people with freedom to express themselves. And the designer does that with a sense of easiness, but with great precision and patience. That's the recipe to constantly evolve. The patience is evident in the amount of meticulously crafted handwork devoted to bespoke designs and the showpieces in the collections he does. Fashion is the language he speaks and shares his reality. Design is the tool he uses to express his thoughts, emotions, feelings and impressions. We can perceive the tangible aspect of the design within the collections though the prism of fashion design. However, I value his work for it's true nature - it's a remedy to the urge of creative energy that all flows within all us. He just shares what he carries within. It's a message that we color the stained glass mosaic of life ourselves.
Portrait by @poison_grl
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